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Decal types:-

Waterslide (code W on the list)
Very similar to the decals that you used on your Airfix/Revell models when you were (a little) younger.  Fitted by immersing the decal in water and then sliding off onto the item to be decorated.  This type of decal MUST be clearcoated/lacquered.

Varnish (code V on the list)
See "History" below, but these decals are fixed by painting the back with goldsize (or varnish), allowing the goldsize to go tacky and then sticking on.  Once dry the sheet that the decal was printed on can be peeled away, leaving the decal behind.  Better if clearcoated, but not absolutely necessary.

Vinyl cut (code L on the list)
Often called "laser" cut, but actually cut by a computer controlled knife.  Be aware that "vinyl" can be thick, lumpy and cheap, which has poor UV and temperature stability (giving you lovely dirty, sticky marks around the edge) or it can be thin, silky smooth and expensive.  We use the latter.  It is literally ten times the price of the cheap stuff.  Very good for one-colour logos.  Basically a peel and stick solution.  If logo is composed of separate letters they are "pre-spaced" and held together on a wide version of masking tape that is jettisoned once decal is applied.

Vinyl print/cut (code C on list)
Substrate material and application method as vinyl cut BUT vinyl is pre-printed with CMYK colours plus gold and silver as required.  Again we only use expensive vinyl.  Application method as vinyl cut, but these decals MUST be clearcoated as the inks are prone to degradation by solvents and abrasion.   As with the cost of vinyl the machine we use is MUCH more expensive than a basic cutter and is therefore NOT the sort of thing you find in the average van-lettering shop.  A machine of this type costs about the same as two family saloon cars.

Special waterslides (code H on list)
These are produced on papers that have been specially made for H Lloyds.  Printing technique is similar to that of printed vinyls.  Quite easy to apply, but can be difficult to clearcoat which MUST be done!  Always shipped with free samples for testing.

Dryfix (code D on list)
A very popular method of application from the early sixties through to late '90's probably.  Still available as a production method for new decals, but not very popular as they tend to dry out and have a short shelf-life.  Must be clearcoated.  The dryfix decals that H Lloyds ship ARE still useable as they have been very carefully stored.  Shipped with special instructions that give "emergency procedures" to be followed if application difficulties are encountered.

Decal history
To follow!